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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.